Yunnan

While most of our South East Asia trip was on the quintessential backpacker route, our next leg, through Yunnan, was decidedly not. In fact it was probably the first time on all my travels where we were the only western tourists for days on end, making us feel like intrepid explorers. Even in the most […]

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SAPA

We arrived at Sapa through Lao Cai on the overnight train from Hanoi. Bleary-eyed and slightly unnerved from having shared our otherwise lovely carriage with a very strange tourist, we were soon on a hair-raising bus journey through the twisting mountains into Sapa. At almost 5000 feet above sea level, Sapa town could be incredibly […]

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THE STREETS OF HANOI

I’m not sure that there are enough adjectives in the English dictionary to describe Hanoi. Hanoi is all the adjectives – it is an an absence of negative space. It has no time for the superfluous or irrelevant – it is constant energy and never-ending chaos. Yet the chaos is not random, it serves a […]

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A Laos diary

We travelled to Laos from Chiang Rai on the slow boat. ‘Slow’ boat, in this case, is not figurative; the trip takes two days with a one night stopover in the tiny town of Pakbeng. My expectation of the slow boat trip was of a romantic, languorous glide over the earthy waters of the Mekong […]

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Ten ways to beat the crowds at Angkor Wat

girl at Preah Khan

GO IN THE OFF SEASON In Cambodia, April to September is considered low/monsoon season and sees a huge drop in the number of tourists. Peak season is December to February. April and May are very hot and humid. Just because it’s monsoon season doesn’t mean that it will rain every day, and when it does […]

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A guide to the temples at angkor wat

girl at Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom Angkor Wat is not only the largest religious complex in the world, but also one of the largest archeological sites in existence. The main temple is so sprawling that notwithstanding the crowds, you’ll often find yourself wandering alone down a long, empty corridor, or admiring the intricate carvings in a […]

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Chiang Mai elephant sanctuary

Aside from the obligatory temple-viewing, our main reason for stopping in Chiang Mai was to tick off one of the things at the very top of my bucket list – visiting an elephant sanctuary. We spent ages doing our research on the most ethical ones, making sure there was no riding or tying up, and […]

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